Ambuyat and Beyond: Exploring Bruneian Cuisine Introduction As you open the pages of this book, you’re not just embarking on a culinary journey, but stepping into a narrative richly woven with history, culture, and tradition. The protagonist of our story is an unassuming yet extraordinary dish, Ambuyat, which perfectly embodies the essence of Bruneian cuisine. Ambuyat, a national delicacy, originates from the interior trunk of the sago palm, a tropical tree abundant in Brunei. When cooked, it transforms into a glutinous, sticky, and transparent substance, remarkably unique in texture and taste. It is often served with an array of side dishes and a tangy, spicy dip called ‘cacah’, made from fermented durian or shrimp paste, tamarind, and chili. Though Ambuyat might initially challenge the unaccustomed palate, it’s not just about the taste – it’s an experience. Consumed using a pair of bamboo sticks called ‘candas’, diners twirl and dip the starch in the cacah and side dishes. This method of eating is not only fun but also communal, fostering togetherness and promoting sharing at the dining table. It’s an integral part of the gastronomic identity of Brunei – an identity built on community, hospitality, and an appreciation for the nation’s natural bounty. The history of Ambuyat extends beyond culinary delight. During the Japanese occupation in World War II, when rice – the staple food – was scarce, Bruneians turned to the sago palm for sustenance. Thus, Ambuyat came to symbolize resilience and adaptability, values deeply ingrained in Brunei’s national character. This book, “Ambuyat and Beyond: Exploring Bruneian Cuisine”, aims to unravel the rich culinary tapestry of Brunei, with Ambuyat at its heart. As we explore the evolution of Bruneian cuisine, from traditional dishes to modern interpretations, we’ll discover how the country’s food has been shaped by its history, geography, and cultural exchanges, and how it continues to evolve in the hands of creative, young chefs. Welcome to this flavourful journey into the heart of Brunei, a journey that promises to be as unique and captivating as Ambuyat itself. The Spice Route – A History of Bruneian Cuisine As we embark on our culinary journey, it is only fitting that we begin by delving into the roots of Bruneian cuisine, a story intricately intertwined with the legendary spice route. Once the backbone of international commerce, the spice route forged connections between distant lands, including Brunei. Traders from India, China, and the Malay Peninsula brought not just goods but also culinary influences that helped shape Brunei’s food culture. Indian traders introduced Brunei to the heady world of spices, ingraining the use of ingredients such as coriander, turmeric, and cumin into Bruneian cookery. These spices are now integral to many Bruneian dishes, imbuing them with a depth of flavour that is both warm and intoxicating. Chinese immigrants, on the other hand, brought their tradition of noodle-making and stir-frying techniques. Today, dishes like Mee Goreng (fried noodles) and Kway Teow (stir-fried flat rice noodles) reflect the lasting Chinese influence, adapted to Bruneian tastes with local ingredients and flavours. The Malay Peninsula’s influence can be seen in the shared love for dishes such as satay and rendang. Yet, Brunei has made these dishes distinctly its own, with subtle variations in cooking techniques and ingredients. Despite these external influences, Bruneian cuisine has retained its unique character, primarily due to the nation’s relationship with its natural environment. Brunei’s lush rainforests provide an array of fresh fruits, vegetables, and herbs, while its coastal location offers a bounty of seafood, all of which feature prominently in its cuisine. The story of Bruneian cuisine is also a tale of resilience and innovation. During times of hardship, such as the Japanese occupation in World War II, Bruneians adapted their culinary practices, leading to the creation of dishes like Ambuyat that continue to be enjoyed today. In recent years, Bruneian cuisine has begun to embrace new influences from global food trends while maintaining a strong connection to its historical roots. This interplay of tradition and innovation is shaping the new era of Bruneian cuisine, which we will explore in the following chapters. As we navigate the spice route of Brunei’s culinary history, we will see that it’s not just about the dishes that grace the dining table. It’s about the people, the culture, and the rich tapestry of influences that have contributed to the evolution of a unique and vibrant cuisine. Untamed Flavours – A Journey Through Brunei’s Indigenous Cuisine While the Bruneian culinary scene may be dominated by dishes like Nasi Katok and Ambuyat, the country’s cuisine is as diverse as its people. The indigenous groups, including the Ibans, Muruts, and Dusun, contribute significantly to this gastronomic diversity. This chapter will explore the unique foods and culinary traditions of these three ethnic groups. Ibans, one of the most populous indigenous groups in Brunei, were traditionally farmers, fishermen, and hunters. Their cuisine reflects these professions and the surrounding environment. Pansuh is one such dish, often prepared during special occasions. In this cooking method, ingredients like chicken, fish, or rice are sealed inside a bamboo tube with aromatic herbs, then cooked slowly over an open fire. This cooking technique infuses the food with a smoky flavour and the scent of bamboo, resulting in a unique culinary experience. Layak, a fermented tapioca dish, is another Iban specialty. The tapioca is mixed with yeast, wrapped in leaves, and left to ferment for several days. It’s then cooked and served as a side dish. Layak has a distinctive sour taste, contrasting the often spicy and rich flavours of other Iban dishes. The Murut people, traditionally living in the highlands of Borneo, are known for their hill rice cultivation. Their most recognized dish is Tinonggilan, fermented rice wine. Rice is mixed with yeast, then allowed to ferment for several days. The result is a sweet, potent wine integral to Murut celebrations and ceremonies. However, the Murut food culture extends beyond rice wine. They are also known for preparing wild game, using natural herbs and ingredients found in the surrounding forests. One such dish is Sinalau Bakas, or smoked wild boar. It’s marinated with local herbs, smoked over a slow-burning fire, and finally barbecued. The meat is tender, smoky, and flavourful, often served with a spicy dipping sauce. The Dusun people, widely distributed in Brunei, have their unique food practices, significantly influenced by their agrarian lifestyle and the surrounding jungle. Ambuyat, although now popular throughout Brunei, has its roots in the Dusun community. It’s made from the interior trunk of the sago palm, an ingredient widely available in the areas where the Dusun reside. Another Dusun specialty is Hinava, a traditional salad. It consists of raw fish cured in lime juice and mixed with chilli, shallots, and grated bambangan (a type of wild mango). The dish showcases the Dusun’s reliance on the rivers and jungles for their sustenance, and their mastery in turning these resources into delectable dishes. Exploring the culinary traditions of the Ibans, Muruts, and Dusun reveals the rich cultural tapestry of Brunei. These indigenous foods, although lesser known compared to the popular Bruneian dishes, carry deep cultural significance and tell the story of the people’s interaction with their environment. They showcase the resourcefulness and creativity of Brunei’s indigenous communities, turning locally available ingredients into distinctive, flavourful dishes. The indigenous foods also serve as a testament to Brunei’s rich biodiversity. They rely on ingredients sourced directly from the wild – from the rivers, the sea, the jungle, and the farms. This connection to nature not only highlights the sustainability of these culinary traditions but also their potential role in conservation efforts. As Brunei’s culinary scene continues to evolve, it’s essential to remember and respect these indigenous food traditions. They not only offer unique, exciting flavours but also carry the rich cultural heritage of Brunei’s indigenous communities. To truly understand and appreciate Bruneian cuisine, one must delve into these traditional foods and the stories they tell about the country’s history, culture, and its people. Breakfast in Brunei – From Traditional to Trendy Our journey through Brunei’s culinary landscape takes us to the beginning of the day – breakfast. Bruneian breakfast is a delightful mix of traditional fare and trendy delights, encapsulating the nation’s food evolution. Traditional breakfast in Brunei is a hearty, flavourful affair. ‘Nasi Lemak’, a fragrant rice dish cooked in coconut milk and pandan leaf, is a popular choice. It’s typically served with a host of accompaniments including fried anchovies, roasted peanuts, hard-boiled eggs, cucumber slices, and a generous dollop of spicy sambal. Roti canai, a type of Indian-influenced flatbread, is another favourite. It’s often served with a side of dhal or curry, perfect for dipping. Its crispy exterior and fluffy interior make it an irresistible start to the day. Then there’s the traditional ‘Kuih’, small, bite-sized snacks or desserts that are often enjoyed in the morning. Made from rice or glutinous rice, these sweet and savoury treats come in various shapes, flavours, and colours, reflecting the nation’s cultural diversity. In recent years, Brunei’s breakfast scene has seen an infusion of global trends, driven by a younger, more adventurous generation of food enthusiasts. Cafes serving Western-style breakfasts, including avocado toast, granola bowls, and artisanal coffee, have sprung up in the country’s urban areas. These dishes often carry a Bruneian twist, incorporating local flavours and ingredients. Health-conscious trends have also made their way to Brunei. More and more establishments are offering options like smoothie bowls, salads, and dishes with plant-based proteins. Meanwhile, traditional dishes are being reinvented with a healthy spin, such as brown rice Nasi Lemak or gluten-free Kuih. Street food also plays a significant role in Brunei’s breakfast scene, offering quick, delicious meals for people on the go. From stalls selling ‘Martabak’ (stuffed pancakes) to mobile vendors with ‘Nasi Katok’ (fried chicken with rice), these provide an authentic, local breakfast experience. In Brunei, breakfast is not just the first meal of the day. It’s a reflection of the country’s culinary history, its embrace of global food trends, and its enduring love for food that is delicious, satisfying, and brings people together. As we delve into the world of breakfast in Brunei, we see a nation that cherishes its traditions while enthusiastically stepping into the new and exciting. And this is only the beginning. The journey of flavours continues… Main Courses – The Heart of Bruneian Cuisine As the day progresses in Brunei, so does our culinary journey. Now, we dive into the main courses that truly exemplify the soul of Bruneian cuisine. These dishes showcase the diversity of ingredients, the blend of cultures, and the creativity of local cooks. At the centre of many main courses in Brunei is rice, a staple that ties together the myriad flavours of the region. The most iconic among them is perhaps Nasi Katok, a simple but beloved dish consisting of steamed rice, fried chicken, and sambal. It is more than just a meal; it’s a symbol of Brunei’s culinary culture, accessible and enjoyed by all segments of society. Then there’s Nasi Lemak, a fragrant dish that transcends breakfast and finds its way into lunch and dinner tables. The coconut milk-infused rice, served with a variety of accompaniments, is a perfect example of how simple ingredients can come together to create a symphony of flavours. Our exploration wouldn’t be complete without mentioning Ambuyat, a distinctive Bruneian dish that provides a unique sensory experience. This sago starch dish, enjoyed with a variety of tangy, spicy dips and side dishes, is a testament to Brunei’s ability to transform humble ingredients into culinary masterpieces. Bruneian cuisine also highlights a wealth of seafood dishes, thanks to the country’s abundant coastal waters. Ikan Bakar (grilled fish), Sambal Udang (prawns in spicy sauce), and Sup Tulang (bone soup) are just a few examples, each reflecting the freshness and quality of local seafood. Meat lovers are not left behind either. Daging Masak Lada Hitam (beef in black pepper sauce) and Ayam Penyet (smashed fried chicken) are favourites, showcasing the aromatic spices and herbs that characterize Brunei’s cuisine. In the realm of noodles, dishes like Mee Goreng and Kway Teow are popular. These dishes, infused with flavours from Chinese culinary traditions, have been adapted to suit the local palate, creating unique versions that are distinctly Bruneian. As Brunei’s culinary landscape continues to evolve, these traditional main courses are being reimagined in exciting ways by a new generation of chefs. They experiment with ingredients, techniques, and presentation, creating dishes that pay homage to tradition while embracing modernity. Apart from the popular dishes mentioned, there are numerous other main courses that contribute to Brunei’s culinary repertoire. ‘Ayam Penyet’, a dish of smashed fried chicken typically served with sambal, cucumbers, and fried tofu, is a much-loved meal. Dishes like ‘Beef Rendang’, a slow-cooked spicy beef dish, and ‘Sayur Lodeh’, a vegetable stew in a coconut milk-based soup, showcase the nuanced use of spices in Bruneian cuisine. Bruneian cuisine also includes several delicacies that may seem exotic to outsiders. These range from ‘Siput Sedut’ (a type of sea snail) to ‘Belutak’, a dish made from spare parts and fatty bits of the cow. In recent years, the main course scene in Brunei has seen the emergence of several innovative dishes that reflect the changing palate of Bruneians. There’s been a rise in fusion dishes that merge traditional Bruneian flavours with international cuisines, offering a contemporary twist to classic dishes. For instance, you may find ‘Burger Ayam Penyet’, a fusion of the classic ‘Ayam Penyet’ with the universally loved burger. Or ‘Nasi Lemak Sushi’, where the components of ‘Nasi Lemak’ are presented in a sushi-style roll. These imaginative creations not only add to the vibrancy of Bruneian cuisine but also attract a younger audience, thus ensuring the continuity and evolution of the culinary tradition. Just like breakfast in Brunei, dining is a communal affair when it comes to main courses. Whether its families gathering for a meal, friends meeting up for a catch-up dinner, or festivities where food is a central element, the sense of community in Brunei is strongly mirrored in its food culture. As we conclude this exploration of Bruneian main courses, it’s clear that these dishes are not just about sustenance. They are a celebration of the country’s heritage, its resources, and its communal spirit. They represent Brunei’s place in the global culinary map – one that’s deeply rooted in tradition yet constantly evolving and embracing change. Each dish, in its own way, narrates a tale of Brunei’s past, presents a snapshot of the present, and offers a flavour-filled promise of the future. Ambuyat – An In-depth Exploration As we delve deeper into the heart of Bruneian cuisine, we find ourselves in front of an intriguing dish that encapsulates the nation’s culinary spirit: Ambuyat. While its appearance—white, gluey, and almost plain—might be misleading, Ambuyat’s cultural significance, historical roots, and its role in Brunei’s culinary scene are truly remarkable. Ambuyat, a dish made from the interior trunk of the sago palm, is a symbol of survival and resilience. During the Japanese occupation in World War II, when food was scarce, Bruneians turned to sago palms. The resilient tree provided sustenance in difficult times, and thus Ambuyat became more than a dish; it became a symbol of Bruneian perseverance. Preparing Ambuyat is a simple process. The sago starch is mixed with warm water until it turns into a sticky, glutinous paste. Despite its simplicity, mastering the right texture requires practice and an understanding of the starch-to-water ratio. The real joy of eating Ambuyat lies in its communal consumption. Eaten with a pair of bamboo sticks, called ‘candas’, it’s dipped into a variety of side dishes and sauces known as ‘cacah’. Cacah is typically tangy and spicy, made from ingredients like fermented durian or shrimp paste, tamarind, and chili. The assortment of side dishes can range from grilled fish to stir-fried vegetables, providing a balance of flavours and textures. The communal aspect of eating Ambuyat—sharing the dish with others, passing around bowls of cacah and side dishes—reflects the spirit of ‘gotong-royong’ or cooperation, which is deeply ingrained in Bruneian society. Today, Ambuyat holds a revered place in Brunei’s culinary scene. It’s served in restaurants, from humble eateries to high-end establishments, each offering their unique renditions of cacah and side dishes. It’s not uncommon to see a modern twist to this traditional dish, with chefs experimenting with new flavours and presentation styles. Yet, regardless of these modern innovations, the essence of Ambuyat remains the same—a testament to Brunei’s historical resilience, a symbol of its cultural heritage, and a celebration of its communal spirit. As we journey further into Brunei’s gastronomic landscape, the story of Ambuyat serves as a reminder of the deep cultural roots of food. Each sticky mouthful is a taste of Brunei’s history, its values, and its love for a culinary tradition that binds the nation together. Sweet Treats and Desserts of Brunei Desserts and sweet treats hold a significant place in the culinary tradition of Brunei. From homemade delicacies served during festive occasions to the sweet offerings found in local markets and restaurants, these treats reflect the country’s rich culinary heritage and its love for indulgence. A journey into Bruneian sweets often begins with the traditional ‘kuih’ or cakes. These bite-sized delights, often steamed or fried, are made from various ingredients like rice flour, glutinous rice, coconut milk, and an array of tropical fruits. Kuih Kosui is one such treat, steamed rice cake made with tapioca flour and rice flour flavoured with palm sugar and pandan and eaten with grated coconut. Another staple is Kuih Bingka Ubi, a baked tapioca cake that’s perfectly sweet and slightly chewy. While many kuih are made daily, some like Kuih Mor, a petite, sugar-dusted biscuit, are often associated with the festive season, specifically Hari Raya Aidilfitri. Cendol, a much-loved iced sweet dessert, is another classic. Made with droplets of worm-like green rice flour jelly, coconut milk, and palm sugar syrup, it’s a perfect treat to beat the Bruneian heat. Similarly, Ais Kacang, also known as ABC (Air Batu Campur), is a colourful concoction of shaved ice, red beans, sweet corn, grass jelly, and evaporated or coconut milk. This dessert can be customized with various toppings like fruit syrups, chocolate, or condensed milk, making it a fun and personalized sweet treat. Local fruits also play a significant role in Bruneian desserts. The abundance of tropical fruits like durian, mango, banana, and rambutan has led to a variety of fruit-based desserts. Pisang Goreng (fried banana fritters) and Cucur Pisang (banana pancakes) are popular snacks found in street markets and roadside stalls. Brunei’s dessert scene also extends to a more contemporary array of sweets. Western-inspired bakeries and dessert cafes have been sprouting up around the country. One notable mention is Mr. Baker’s Bakeshop, known for its vast assortment of cakes, pastries, and artisan bread. Similarly, Bake Culture, a bakery chain co-founded by Bruneian superstar Wu Chun, is renowned for its fusion desserts. These East-meets-West creations, like the durian cheesecake or cheese kek batik, are not only visually stunning but also offer a unique taste experience. Ice cream parlours, such as Rumah Gelato, are also part of the sweet scene. With an array of flavours from classic vanilla to local flavours like teh-tarik and durian, these parlours offer a modern twist to the traditional ice cream experience. The rising cafe culture in Brunei has also seen an increase in dessert offerings. Cafes like Piccolo Cafe and Ximply Chriz are known for their beautifully presented and mouth-watering desserts. These range from waffles and pancakes served with a choice of toppings, to more elaborate creations like matcha lava cake and salted caramel brownie. Brunei’s dessert scene is a delightful blend of the traditional and the contemporary. It is a reflection of the country’s culinary evolution while staying true to its roots. Whether it’s the traditional kuih served during festive celebrations, the local fruit-based desserts, or the contemporary fusion sweets, the array of desserts and sweet treats in Brunei is truly a feast for the senses. Refreshments and Beverage – Quenching Thirst Brunei Style In this chapter, we delve into the diverse range of beverages that accompany meals in Brunei, providing refreshment and complementing the rich flavours of the country’s cuisine. Bruneian beverages, just like its food, are a mix of local creations, adaptations from surrounding regions, and a few global influences. They range from refreshing fruit juices and herbal drinks to robust coffee and tea variations. Beginning with traditional drinks, ‘Air Bandung’ is a popular choice. Made from evaporated or condensed milk flavoured with rose syrup, it’s a sweet, creamy drink that’s especially loved during the fasting month of Ramadan. It’s not only refreshing but also quite versatile, often being paired with a variety of dishes. Tea also plays a significant role in Bruneian beverage culture. ‘Teh Tarik’, or ‘pulled tea’, is a must-try. It’s a strong black tea sweetened with condensed milk and artfully ‘pulled’ to create a frothy top. This tea isn’t just about taste; the spectacle of its making is an experience in itself. Coffee, too, has its place in the Bruneian heart. ‘Kopi’, a strong, aromatic brew, is often enjoyed with condensed milk. The local coffee culture is growing, with traditional coffee shops, or ‘kopitiams’, thriving alongside modern cafes. ‘Air Tebu’, or sugarcane juice, is another common sight, especially in night markets and street stalls. Extracted fresh from sugarcane stalks, this sweet, refreshing juice is often served chilled, perfect for Brunei’s tropical weather. The influence of neighbouring countries is evident in drinks like ‘Cendol’, a sweet dessert beverage made from pandan noodles, coconut milk, and palm sugar syrup. It’s a delightful concoction, often enjoyed as a midday treat or dessert. Then there are fresh fruit juices, reflecting Brunei’s tropical bounty. From common fruits like orange and watermelon to more local ones like durian and rambutan, these juices are a healthy, refreshing option. As we explore the refreshing and diverse world of Bruneian beverages, we discover a culture that values balance. The drinks not only quench the thirst but also balance the often spicy and rich Bruneian dishes, making the dining experience a well-rounded one. Each sip tells a story of tradition, adaptation, and the love for a good, satisfying drink. Festive Feasts – Celebratory Cuisine in Brunei In Brunei, as with many cultures worldwide, food is an essential aspect of any celebration. Each feast serves not only to satiate hunger but to strengthen social bonds, uphold traditions, and create lasting memories. Every dish has a story, its flavours encapsulating centuries of history, customs, and shared experiences. One of the most significant and grandest celebrations in Brunei is Hari Raya Aidilfitri, marking the end of Ramadan, the Islamic holy month of fasting. The occasion is commemorated with a feast of traditional Bruneian delicacies that takes days, sometimes weeks, to prepare. No Hari Raya feast would be complete without Ketupat, compressed rice wrapped in a woven palm leaf pouch and boiled. It is typically served with Rendang, a rich and aromatic beef stew slow cooked in coconut milk and a variety of spices. The Ketupat’s blandness balances the Rendang’s robust flavours, creating a harmony that encapsulates the spirit of the celebration. Satay, skewers of grilled meat served with a peanut sauce, is another staple at these festive feasts. The meats, usually chicken, beef, or lamb, are marinated in a blend of spices before being grilled to perfection. The smoky, slightly charred meat paired with the sweet and nutty sauce, is a combination that brings joy to any celebration. One cannot discuss Hari Raya food without mentioning Kuih Mor. These bite-sized cookies have a unique place in Bruneian homes during this festive season. Made from rice flour, ghee, and sugar, these melt-in-your-mouth cookies are a labour of love, often prepared collectively by families, further enhancing the sense of togetherness during the celebration. Bruneians also celebrate Chinese New Year, thanks to its significant Chinese community. This celebration brings another array of flavours to the Bruneian festive food scene. The reunion dinner held on the eve of the Chinese New Year is the highlight, featuring dishes like Peking Duck, longevity noodles, and steamed fish, each symbolizing good luck, longevity, and prosperity. Christmas is another celebration that has been incorporated into Brunei’s multicultural society, particularly among its Christian community. Christmas feasts might include a fusion of Western and Bruneian cuisine, such as roast turkey seasoned with local spices and served with a spicy peanut sauce. Every community in Brunei, regardless of its size, has its unique food traditions associated with various celebrations. From the Iban’s Gawai Dayak, a harvest festival featuring Pansuh and Tuak, to the Indian community’s Deepavali celebration with its array of sweet treats like Jalebi and Gulab Jamun, the diverse festive feasts underscore Brunei’s multicultural culinary landscape. These festive foods are not just about flavours and ingredients; they’re about traditions passed down through generations. They’re about families coming together, cooking, eating, and celebrating. They’re a tribute to the diverse influences and rich history that have shaped Brunei’s culinary culture. The preparation of festive food is as important as the feasts themselves. The process involves age-old techniques and recipes, often unwritten and passed down orally from generation to generation. It’s a communal affair, with everyone from grandparents to grandchildren involved, reinforcing family ties and collective identity. These traditional cooking techniques and recipes reflect the cultural richness of Brunei, making each festive feast a delectable culinary journey through its heritage. Brunei’s Food Scene – Street Eats to Fine Dining Brunei’s culinary scene is a vibrant tapestry of flavours, cultures, and traditions. From the lively street food stalls to the sophisticated dining establishments, each offers a unique perspective of the country’s rich culinary heritage. This chapter explores the various aspects of Brunei’s food scene, shedding light on the flavours and stories that make Brunei’s cuisine so distinctive and loved. A journey through Brunei’s culinary landscape must start at the grassroots level – the bustling street food scene. As the sun sets, the markets and hawker stalls come alive, each offering a symphony of tantalizing aromas and bustling activity. Pasar Malam Gadong, one of Brunei’s most popular night markets, is a culinary hotspot where locals and tourists converge to savour an array of local delicacies. Nasi Katok, an iconic dish of Brunei, serves as a cornerstone of the street food scene, adored by locals and visitors alike. At its core, this dish is simplicity personified: steamed rice paired with sambal, a fiery condiment. One of the original purveyors, Nasi Katok Mabohai, is known for maintaining the simplicity of this traditional dish. Their version includes a quarter of a hard-boiled egg and their signature sambal pusu. Eschewing the inclusion of chicken, they offer a purist’s take on Nasi Katok that resonates with those who appreciate the dish in its most fundamental form. Nasi Katok Lily, on the other hand, caters to a spectrum of spice preferences with several levels of heat in their sambal. Paired with fried chicken, their rendition of Nasi Katok offers a customizable experience for spice lovers. Nasi Katok Kaka is yet another popular choice, known for offering a variety of additional accompaniments. You can enjoy your Nasi Katok with extras like a fried egg and pickles, and their unique sambal strikes a delightful balance between sweet and spicy. Whether it’s the pared-down purity of Nasi Katok Mabohai, the spice variations of Nasi Katok Lily, or the accompaniment-rich Nasi Katok Kaka, this humble dish continues to reflect the culinary diversity within the shared love for Nasi Katok across Brunei. Lee Loi Fatt is a name that resonates with Bruneians as a stalwart of the local street food scene. Known for their delectable variety of dishes, they’ve carved a special place in the hearts of locals and tourists alike. Their Rojak, a flavourful mix of fruits and vegetables tossed in a tangy, sweet-savoury sauce, is lauded for its perfect balance of tastes and textures. Their Laksa, a spicy noodle soup brimming with coconut milk, herbs, and spices, is a must-try for its comforting warmth and richness. Satay, a universally adored Southeast Asian delicacy, also holds a special place in Brunei’s vibrant street food scene. This dish of skewered, grilled meats served with a mouth-watering peanut sauce is a street food staple that no visit to Brunei is complete without. Satay Salim is a prominent name in the satay world, known for their succulent chicken and beef satay. Each skewer is a testament to perfect grilling technique, creating a flavourful char on the outside while keeping the meat tender and juicy on the inside. Their peanut sauce, creamy and well-spiced, makes for a delightful accompaniment. Satay Hj Ibrahim is another renowned establishment, appreciated for its variety of satay options including chicken, beef, and lamb. Their satay is distinguished by the aromatic marinade that infuses the meat, making each bite a flavourful delight. The accompanying peanut sauce is rich, with a hint of spiciness that elevates the entire dish. SML or Satay Makanan Lazat is a classic fixture on Brunei’s satay circuit. Their unique draw is their “satay perut” or beef tripe satay, a dish that brings a different texture and flavour profile to the traditional satay line-up. Their peanut sauce is loved for its smooth, balanced flavours, perfect for dipping their well-grilled skewers. These establishments have played key roles in popularizing and maintaining the quality of satay in Brunei, each offering their unique twists and flavours, contributing to the diverse and vibrant local street food landscape. The casual dining scene in Brunei is where the warmth of its people truly shines. Local eateries, affectionately known as “Kedai Kopi,” serve as community hubs, offering a variety of dishes that reflect the diverse tastes of Bruneians. One such establishment is Jing Chew, a local institution renowned for its roti kahwin, a delightful sandwich of margarine and kaya (coconut jam) wedged between slices of perfectly toasted bread. Another local favourite is Roti Culture, which, as the name suggests, specializes in roti, a type of Indian-influenced flatbread. Roti Culture offers an array of dishes where roti takes centre stage, served with a variety of delicious dips and fillings that showcase Bruneian and regional flavours. Then, there’s CA Mohamad, a timeless eatery that has been serving up classic Bruneian fare for decades. Known for its Mee Mamak and Roti Norbi, it’s a place where one can experience home-style Bruneian cooking in a cosy, relaxed setting. It’s not uncommon to see families and groups of friends gathered here, sharing stories and laughter over plates of their delicious food. Kway Teow, stir-fried flat rice noodles, is a beloved dish in Brunei, and several establishments have contributed to its popularity with their distinctive renditions. Tasanee, or Seria Kway Teow located in Gadong is a standout in the Kway Teow scene, known for its perfectly balanced flavours. Their Kway Teow has a delectable smoky flavour from the high-heat stir-frying process, also known as “wok hei” making every bite a savoury delight. Ah Tong Kway Teow in Seria is another noteworthy mention. Their version is famed for its rich, umami flavours. The noodles are stir-fried with a generous amount of soy sauce, giving it a darker colour and a savoury-sweet taste that has patrons coming back for more. Sungai Liang Kway Teow stands out for their bold and robust flavours. The beef or chicken, and bean sprouts provide a satisfying contrast in textures, complementing the soft, chewy noodles. Each of these establishments adds their unique twist to Kway Teow, showcasing the diversity and richness of Brunei’s culinary scene. In recent years, the café culture has also taken root in Brunei, introducing a new dimension to its food scene. The rise of café culture in Brunei has brought an influx of modern establishments that perfectly blend local flavours with global food trends, providing a delightful contrast to the traditional eateries. Among these establishments, certain names stand out, like Piccolo Café, Ximply Chriz, Mr Baker’s Bakeshop, and Roasted Sip, each with their unique offerings and ambiance. Piccolo Café, true to its name, is a quaint, charming spot, serving a selection of western-inspired dishes alongside some local favourites. Whether it’s their delightful pasta dishes or the warm, hearty soups, every dish is prepared with care and served with a smile. Ximply Chriz, on the other hand, is a homegrown café brand that creatively combines Western and Asian flavours. Their inventive menu, featuring dishes like Salted Egg Yolk Chicken Pasta and the delectable Creamy Butter Milk Prawn, is a testament to Brunei’s evolving culinary scene. Mr Baker’s Bakeshop is a delightful haven for all who appreciate the art of baking. From the flaky, buttery pastries to the mouth-watering selection of cakes and cookies, every item promises a bite of happiness. Their freshly baked bread, with its distinctive aroma and taste, is a must-try for anyone visiting the bakery. Lastly, there’s Roasted Sip, known for its specialty coffee and chic, industrial-style interiors. This café is a coffee enthusiast’s dream come true, offering a range of brews from around the world. Their menu doesn’t stop at coffee; they also serve an array of savoury and sweet treats, making it an ideal spot for both a caffeine fix and a fulfilling meal. Moving up the culinary ladder, we come to Brunei’s fine dining scene, which, although smaller compared to its regional neighbours, offers a rich dining experience. An array of elegant dining options like Pantai Restaurant, Jazz Bar, Sorisso, and Riwaz offer distinctive experiences that cater to a range of palates. Pantai Restaurant, nestled in the Empire Hotel & Country Club, offers a mix of Asian and Western cuisine. With its stunning beachfront view and an array of delectable dishes, dining here becomes a truly immersive experience. The restaurant’s fresh seafood selection and succulent steaks have a reputation for impressing even the most discerning diners. Jazz Bar & Grill, located in the capital’s vibrant heart, is known for its classy yet relaxed atmosphere. With its diverse menu and live music, the restaurant offers a truly unique dining experience. From sizzling steaks to fresh seafood dishes, each plate promises a culinary symphony that is sure to delight. Sorriso is renowned for its authentic Italian offerings in a warm, inviting setting. The menu, designed by expert chefs, features classics like the Margherita pizza, cooked in a traditional wood-fired oven, and homemade pastas that transport you straight to the heart of Italy. Their impressive selection of non-alcoholic beverages and divine desserts complement the savoury dishes perfectly. Riwaz, situated within the Radisson Hotel, stands as a testament to the richness of Indian cuisine. Offering a luxurious dining experience, it serves traditional Indian dishes with a modern twist. From creamy butter chicken to flavourful biryanis, each dish is a fragrant and colourful culinary journey into India’s heart. The restaurant’s refined ambiance, coupled with Radisson’s renowned hospitality, creates an unforgettable dining experience. These elements reflect Riwaz’s commitment to quality, service, and the art of fine dining, while staying true to Brunei’s cultural and religious principles. These establishments, while differing in their culinary offerings, share a common commitment to exceptional service, high-quality ingredients, and the art of fine dining. They reflect Brunei’s diverse food scene and its ability to cater to a spectrum of tastes, occasions, and moods, while adhering to the country’s cultural and religious principles. The evolution of Brunei’s food scene is a reflection of its society’s progress and the people’s adventurous palates. As Bruneians continue to explore new flavours and cuisines, the boundary between traditional and contemporary is increasingly blurred, leading to exciting culinary innovations. Yet, amidst this culinary evolution, Brunei’s food scene remains grounded in its roots. The importance of family and community, the love for local flavours, and the respect for tradition are still the cuisine’s cornerstone. This blend of old and new, tradition and innovation, is what makes Brunei’s food scene unique. It is a culinary journey that takes you through the country’s history and heritage while tantalizing your taste buds with an array of diverse and vibrant flavours. In conclusion, the Bruneian food scene is not merely a collection of eateries serving food; it is a vibrant community that celebrates the country’s diverse cultural heritage. It is a testament to Brunei’s rich culinary traditions, its people’s love for food, and their willingness to embrace new tastes and trends. It serves as an exciting platform for culinary innovation while remaining true to its roots. For the food lover, Brunei offers an unforgettable culinary journey, from the humblest street food to the most sophisticated dining experiences. The New Era – Bruneian Cuisine in Contemporary Times In this chapter, we delve into the current trends and transformations shaping the new era of Bruneian cuisine. With the rise of a young, globally informed, and increasingly health-conscious generation, the country’s food landscape is experiencing exciting changes. First, we’ll look at the innovative young chefs who are reshaping traditional Bruneian cuisine. The dynamism of Brunei’s culinary scene is more vibrant than ever, with a new generation of talented food entrepreneurs reshaping the landscape. Inspired by their rich culinary heritage and the global food culture, these young innovators are offering a unique fusion of flavours and styles that are drawing both local and international attention. Among these trailblazers are Qayum and Qawiem, the brothers behind Le Keris. This duo is making waves with their innovative approach to traditional Malay cuisine, injecting it with a distinctive European flair. They are not shy about pushing culinary boundaries, often integrating modern cooking techniques into their creations. Their Sous Vide Chicken Curry is a standout example – the chicken is cooked sous vide, a method that ensures a consistently tender and juicy texture, before being doused in a rich, fragrant curry. It’s a seamless fusion of Malay flavours and French culinary technique that offers a novel dining experience. Next, we’ll explore the rise of fusion cuisine, blending Bruneian flavours with global cuisines. This trend reflects the multicultural influences in Brunei and the growing desire to experiment with food. From ‘Paista’ to ‘Ambuyat Goreng’, these fusion dishes offer a fresh take on Bruneian food. Paista is a compelling fusion of Pais Daging, a traditional meat dish, and pasta. This unusual pairing showcases the adaptability of Bruneian flavours. The Pais Daging lends a depth of spice-infused, savoury richness to the pasta, creating a dish that’s both comforting and tantalizingly exotic. The succulent meat, wrapped in banana leaf and grilled, melds beautifully with the pasta, creating a unique culinary experience that’s deeply rooted in tradition yet refreshingly novel. Ambuyat Goreng is another ingenious creation, transforming the classic Bruneian dish Ambuyat into a stir-fried delight. Traditionally, Ambuyat is usually served with a variety of dips and side dishes. In the case of Ambuyat Goreng, it’s stir-fried with an assortment of ingredients – typically vegetables and proteins, seasoned with sauces and spices. The result is a flavourful, texture-rich dish that breathes new life into a classic staple, demonstrating the endless possibilities of Bruneian cuisine when its traditional flavours are reimagined with a modern twist. The growing emphasis on health and wellness is another significant trend. More and more Bruneians are seeking balanced, nutritious meals, prompting restaurants and home cooks to offer healthier versions of traditional dishes. This includes using organic, locally sourced ingredients, cutting down on processed foods, and incorporating more plant-based options. Anchored by popular eateries such as Roots, Seven Sporks, and Top Nosh, this burgeoning healthy food scene offers nutritious and diverse menu options that resonate with Bruneians’ taste preferences and health goals. At Seven Sporks has made a name for itself with its innovative fusion of local and international flavours, all created with the highest quality ingredients and a focus on nutritional balance. Roots, meanwhile, caters to the health-conscious with its healthy fare, demonstrating that wellness and culinary refinement can go hand in hand. These establishments are driving the transformation of Brunei’s food culture, helping locals embrace healthier eating habits without compromising on taste or variety. Moreover, the rise of specialty coffee shops and tea houses has added a new dimension to Brunei’s food scene. Cafes such as ‘Roasted Sip’ and ‘Piccolo Cafe’ offer a range of specialty coffees and artisanal teas, serving as popular spots for brunch and casual gatherings. They often feature unique fusion dishes on their menu, combining international and Bruneian flavours. Finally, we see the influence of international cuisine on Bruneian food, such as Korean, Japanese, and Middle Eastern cuisines, among others. Restaurants like ‘Koryo Restaurant’ for Korean cuisine, ‘Kaizen Sushi’ for Japanese, and ‘Tarindak D’Polo’ for a mix of local and Middle Eastern cuisine, reflect the country’s growing culinary diversity. Bruneian cuisine in the new era, thus, is characterized by a dynamic interplay of tradition and innovation. It is continually shaped by the creativity and passion of those who prepare and appreciate food, resulting in an exciting and evolving culinary landscape. As we move forward, we eagerly anticipate what the future holds for Bruneian cuisine, knowing that it will continue to surprise and delight us. In the realm of fine dining, chefs are also innovating and incorporating international techniques into local dishes. For instance, ‘Pantai Restaurant’ in ‘The Empire Hotel & Country Club’ is known for its East-meets-West approach. The chefs, trained in European cooking techniques, bring a fresh perspective to traditional dishes, using techniques like sous-vide for local meats and creating fusion dishes that marry Bruneian flavours with Western presentation styles. The introduction of food delivery apps like ‘GoMamam’ and ‘Dart Food Delivery’ has further transformed the dining experience in Brunei. These apps have not only made a wide variety of food accessible at the touch of a button but also paved the way for online-only restaurants or ‘cloud kitchens’. In conclusion, Bruneian cuisine in contemporary times is much like a stirring pot of ‘Ambuyat’, with the starch representing the deep-rooted traditions, and the ‘cacah’ (dips) signifying the various influences and innovations. It is this mix that gives the cuisine its unique identity and makes it a true reflection of Brunei’s cultural dynamism. As we continue to navigate through the new era, we can look forward to more delectable surprises that Bruneian cuisine has to offer. Cooking Bruneian – Recipes and Techniques In this chapter, we’ll delve into the techniques, tips, and recipes that embody the spirit of Bruneian cooking, making it accessible for everyone. Firstly, we need to understand that the essence of Bruneian cuisine lies in its spices and the techniques used to coax out their flavours. The process often starts with ‘tumis’, a method of sautéing ground spices, such as garlic, shallots, ginger, and chili, in oil until fragrant. This forms the base for many Bruneian dishes like ‘Rendang Daging’ and ‘Ayam Masak Merah’. Another important aspect is the balance of flavours – sweet, sour, spicy, and salty, which you can witness in ‘Asam Pedas’, a tangy and spicy fish stew. It’s a beloved dish that perfectly represents this balance. The recipe involves tamarind paste for sourness, chili for heat, palm sugar for sweetness, and belacan (shrimp paste) for saltiness and umami. Freshness of ingredients, particularly in seafood and vegetables, is paramount in Bruneian cooking. A great example is ‘Udang Sambal Serai Bersantan’ (Prawns with Lemongrass and Coconut Milk), which features fresh prawns cooked in a tantalizing sauce of lemongrass, chili, and creamy coconut milk. The succulence of the prawns paired with the aromatic sauce is a testament to Bruneian love for fresh produce and seafood. Next, we delve into the preparation of ‘Ambuyat’, Brunei’s national dish. This sago starch dish, when prepared with hot water, forms a gluey texture and is eaten by rolling around a special forked tool called ‘candas’. It is served with a variety of side dishes and dips known as ‘cacah’, such as ‘Binjai’ (a sour fruit), ‘Tempoyak’ (fermented durian), and different types of ‘Sambal’. It’s not just a meal but a communal dining experience, reinforcing Bruneian values of togetherness. Baking and sweet treats are also part of Bruneian cuisine. ‘Kuih-Muih’ refers to a variety of traditional cakes and desserts, often steamed or baked, such as ‘Kuih Kosui’, ‘Kuih Cincin’, and ‘Kuih Seri Muka’. For beverages, ‘Teh Tarik’ or pulled tea is a popular drink, known for its frothy top from the ‘pulling’ process of making it. Another local favourite is ‘Bandung’, a sweet drink made from evaporated or condensed milk and rose cordial syrup, often served with a splash of ‘Selasih’ (basil seeds). In this chapter, readers will find detailed recipes, step-by-step cooking methods, and expert tips for these dishes and more, making it easier to recreate authentic Bruneian flavours right at home. Whether you’re an aspiring chef or a home cook, these insights into Bruneian cooking techniques and recipes will surely enrich your culinary repertoire. I’m glad you’re interested in learning more about these recipes. Here are a few detailed recipes along with some cooking tips: Ayam Masak Merah Ingredients: · 1kg chicken, cut into pieces · 3 tablespoons cooking oil · 2 onions, sliced · 2 cloves garlic, minced · 1 tablespoon ginger, minced · 3 tablespoons chili paste · 2 tablespoons tomato paste · 2 tomatoes, cut into wedges · 1 cup water · 2 tablespoons sugar · Salt to taste · 2 kaffir lime leaves · 1 stalk lemongrass, smashed Instructions: 1. Marinate the chicken pieces with salt and set aside for at least 15 minutes. Heat the oil in a pan over medium heat. Add the chicken pieces and fry until golden brown. Remove the chicken and set aside. 2. In the same oil, sauté the onions, garlic, and ginger until fragrant. Add the chili paste and tomato paste and continue to sauté until the oil begins to separate from the mixture. 3. Return the chicken to the pan, add the tomatoes, and stir to combine. Add water, sugar, kaffir lime leaves, and lemongrass. Stir well. 4. Lower the heat, cover the pan, and let it simmer for 20-30 minutes or until chicken is tender and the sauce has thickened. Check the seasoning, add more salt or sugar if necessary. Serve hot with rice. Tips: · Using fresh tomatoes in the recipe not only provides a richer flavour but also adds a beautiful colour to the dish. · Frying the chicken until golden brown before simmering helps to seal in the juices, resulting in tender, flavourful meat. · The key to this dish is the slow simmer. This allows the flavours to meld together and the chicken to become tender. · Season the dish towards the end of the cooking process. This allows you to adjust the flavour as the ingredients may have changed during the cooking process. · Lemongrass and kaffir lime leaves add a fragrant, citrusy note to the dish, which contrasts well with the spicy and sweet flavours. Don’t skip these! · You can adjust the amount of chili paste according to your preference for heat. If you prefer a milder flavour, you can reduce the amount of chili paste. · This dish goes well with steamed rice and a simple vegetable dish on the side. The richness of Ayam Masak Merah is balanced out by the mild and light flavours of the accompaniments.